Led Water-Wall / Ambient Light
- February 19th, 2012
- Posted in Updates
- By BadWolf
- Write comment
At first I was like , “haha good joke” and then it quickly switched to “you really do want a lamp eh?” so after much web-browsing on cool lamps I could try, I’ve found the solution while
having a dinner at a restaurant where they had some really cool walls : Thick sheets of glass containing bubble-filled water on which led light was spread. The effect was super cool as only the
bubbles actually display the light and the water stay pretty much transparent. Their apparatus was also big as it could get : 2 full panels of 4′x8′ and it was more than sufficient to flood the place with
colour-changing light.
So it was decided,after some sourcing I’ve came up with this:
And final version look like this:
It’s 2′ X 1′,all Plexiglas ,all chemicals weld.
here’s a video of it in action:
How it’s made:
First of all,you need
-Plexiglas for this, something like 2X 2′by1′ and 6-8 strips of 1′ wide 24′ long. (hardware store supply,be carefull this is expensive stuff…)
-RGB LED strip IPV6 recommanded (waterproof and flexible) here,a simple non-adressable strip is used http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10259
-3 Power Mosfets (1 per color) http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10213
-Bubblers (fish tank style are .75′ wide and work like a charm,used 2 in this setup) http://www.aquariumguys.com/buwaai28.html
-Air tubing http://www.aquariumguys.com/airlinetubing6.html
-Air pump (with some check valves to prevent back flow into the pump) http://www.aquariumguys.com/renaairpump3.html http://www.aquariumguys.com/checkvalve.html
-Arduino of your choice. I used this : http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9218
-Plexicolle (the only thing good enough to weld plexiglass) find that at your hardware store,it’s a glass bottle with some warning on it,name can change where you live, it’s highly volatile and is a transparent liquid that is a chloromethane-based solvent.IT NEEDS TO BE SYRINGE APPLIED for good results
Once you have everything,the first part is to assemble the lamp’s body.
-Assemble one side with the strips cut to length and weld. Use clamps and vises to secure stuff and do correct welds.
-Drill 2 holes for the wires and tubing to come out at one of the corners on the bottom.
-Assemble the bubblers and the led strip,hot glue works but it ain’t perfect,use some epoxy-solvent glue and glue it to the bottom.
-Pull the wires/tubing out,don’t seal it until you’ve tested it work !!!
-Assemble and “tack weld” the other big panel on it. Once it’s clean dried, you can go on and use a syringe extender (home made is way funnier).
Here’s a video of one of the final welds:
As you can see,it’s a pretty tedious job. Take your time,and take deep breaths between shots. (do not breath the stuff,it’s harmful! )
-Assemble electronics (I used LadyAda tuto for this,including the software as a start point) http://www.ladyada.net/products/rgbledstrip/
it should look something like this:
(the pump I’ve used as 2 outputs,more bubbles)
(the potentiometer is used to control color changing speed)
When everything is good to go,seal the wires,the tubing,the outside,abuse plexicolle all over the place. Bend some “legs” to look like hang-coat and weld them on. Fill with water,start the pump (yay bubbles!) and fire up the electronics.
For the “legs” simply bend with a air gun some 1″ wide strips and weld them on place,work like a charm with a vise.
TIPS for working with Plexiglas:
1-Use a metal saw to cut this, HIGH FPM with low hand feed works good.
2-Do not remove the protecting plastic until you are ready to weld.
3-Hot air gun is your friend when you want to bend those, take your time,low heat is sufficient.
4-Get some syringes with the smallest needles. You’ll use that to put the solvent where you want. If you don’t clean them ASAP they melt too,so get more than one.
5-Do not drop solvent anywhere on the Plexiglas,it will melt it and make “scratches” (look closely at the pic above,left side,right above the leg).
6-Use “soft end” vises and pliers to hold the material still.
7-Use extenders like this if needed:
One rod hold the syringe,the other one pushes.
Made with scrap rods from printers.
You should now have a good looking lamp adding some flood lighting to your room.
Pics of the build process :
Questions? Comment!
I’ll answer asap,as usual ;p
Thanks for your time!






















I love this waterfall!!! Good job!
Thanks
although it’s a water-wall ;p
sorry! i was thinking about making a waterfall and i wrote the wrong word…XD
Edit: I love this water-WALL!
Can you tell me how much have you spent for this project?
(sorry for my english…)
LED strip cost 10+tax/feet, 2 feets used so 25$,then the plexiglas is pretty expensive also, 70$. Electronics were about 40 and the glue-solvent another 10. Water pump 20 and bubbler and valves another 20.
Total of : 185$.
could be done with more searching for 100-120$,if you have access to plexiglass then it’s a breeze.
Neat.
Would be nice to redo this with a more viscous liquid so the bubbles are slowed down and the Renolds number is such that shapes are transforming as they rise.
Great work, have fun.
Rich
I’m not familiar with renolds number,could you provide some insight? (I’m pretty sure it’s a measurement of viscosity right?)
drag/viscosity
Have you noticed a problem with algae growth?
after two month,some slight algae appeared, it got solved by cleaning and then adding pool chemicals to the water.
Sorry to ask a beginner question: do you need to use a resistor between each led colour and power mosfet? I have followed the ladyada tut linked, which doesn’t mention resistors when using mosfets, but the lights aren’t coming on. Also, the mosfet gets hot incredibly quickly!
I see now on the technical specs of the led strips that they include resistors – this must take care of that issue. Guess I am back to square one figuring out what is wrong.
I just read both your comments.
Yes there are resistors on board to drive each led channel separately,it’s pretty darn hard to burn a led strip (over-voltage).
For your particular problem,it seems like you got the pins confused my friend,the only way it’s getting hot is when full (and I mean every ounces) of
power is going through it,which leads me into thinking you swapped some pins and made a short in a way it’s looping. Check your datasheets again,that’s what
I’d do in that particular case.
If this doesn’t solve it,feel free to post here.
thanks
Thanks for the response! I forgot to tell you what a cool looking project you have. I just rechecked the spec’s and it was indeed a rookie mistake…reversed the polarity for the LED’s. whoops. Thanks again for your help.
no problem,glad I could help!